Ever since I installed my new wheels on the Jeep the Tire Pressure Monitoring System has not worked correctly. At no point have all 4 wheels displayed at the same time and some of the wheels are not displaying in the correct location. The new wheels went on with the new axles, so the wheels are pushed out a few inches farther than stock but I can't believe that slight change is the cause of the problem but it could be an ingredient. There doesn't seem to be any way to interact with or manually reset the TPMS system. Any suggestions, This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..

TPMS not reading all the wheels
TPMS not reading all the wheels

When you take a wrench to a brand new vehicle and make some major changes you develop this habit of subconsciously listening for rattles, clunks, and really any signs of imminent doom. Yesterday while driving over some bumps in the road I noticed some clunking coming from under my Jeep. It went from a new sound I'd never heard before to a very noticeable and dreadful sound in a matter of half a mile. I pulled over and inspected everything I can remember having touched with a wrench but nothing looked amiss. I finished my errand and took the Jeep to my shop for further inspection and found that the rear brake caliper mounting bolts on my Dana 60 were never properly torqued from the factory and one had fallen completely out and was lost and the other was hanging on by just a couple threads. The clunking was the brake caliper slapping the inside of the rear wheel.

Loose caliper mounting bolt
Loose caliper mounting bolt

I checked the passenger side brake caliper mounting bolts and found them to be loose as well. Needless to say I am a little let down by Dana/Spicer for not having quality controls in place to ensure proper assembly. This event has definately planted a seed of doubt that some other parts of my axles may be improperly assembled or not torqued to specifications.

New grade 10.9 16mm mushroom head bolt
Thanks True Value!

Luckily we have a True Value store in our small town that has an amazing selection of hardware including grade 10.9 16mm mushroom head bolts in just the right length.

My jeep with the Dana 60's and Method 105 beadlock wheels
My Jeep July 11, 2016 with Dana 60's and Method Racing 105's

Dana 60's are in and my Jeep is drivable again! I'll write the details in the Dana 60 Install page on this site soon. I have not tackled the locker wiring yet.

There are no big hang-up with this swap but there is one problem that needs to be addressed and that is the brakes, or lack thereof. The pedel makes it about 3/4 of the way to the floor before any braking actually occurs, which gives you the horrible sensation that you might not have any brakes. The good news is that Mopar offers the RAM 3500 series booster and master cylinder for the Jeep JK (Part No. P5160050) that should rectify this. I'd say that addressing the booster/master cylinder is a necessity for this project.

After mounting the axles I spent a fair amount of time adjusting both the front and rear control arms. The setup I had with the stock axles perfectly centered the wheel inside the wheels inside he wheel wells but gave the rear springs a bad looking arch because the pinion was pointed up too much. When I installed the Dana 60 not only was the arch still a problem but now the beefier upper control arm bracket on the passenger side hit the swap bar link. I shortened the upper arms about 4 full revolutions and lengthened the lowers about 3.

sway bar link hits bracket
That's not good!

In the front I knew I'd have to adjust for the "designed for lifted vehicles" geometry of the Dana 60's. The instructions (of which there are almost none by the way) say the caster should be set to 3.2 degrees. Without adjusting the arms I was well over 5 degrees. I adjusted the caster by extending the upper arms about 4 full turns until I had a reading of about 3.5 which was close enough for me.

With this set-up the driveline and suspension all work fine however my tires rub in a couple places. The rubbing is caused partly by the increased width and partly by length of the control arms. The biggest problem is the front tires hitting the bumper. That I'll have to adjust right away. The back tires barely buff the back of the fenders when the wheels travel upward far enough.

As far as left and right fit go the rear is perfect and the front is about 3/4" offset toward the passenger side so that'll have to get adjusted as well.

I had a brief scare yesterday...

Front driveshaft CV Joint
Front CV Joint hits this bracket

I put my Jeep in 4WD for the first time since the upgrades and I heard a very worrisome clunking coming from the transfercase. My first thought was that I had done something to the transfer case when I swapped the output flanges. climbed underneath and discovered that the monstrous 1350 CV Joint on the front driveshaft hits a bracket. Luckily it doesn't look too serious and it's something I'll trim or bend out of the way.

Here is my first wiring problem. The wiring harness for the stock Dana 44 has two molded connectors that both have 2 wires in them. The new Dana 60 has just two wires sticking out of it. Something has to give here.

stock axle wiring loom
How do I wire this?

I can assume that one of the connectors on the jeep wiring harness is used to energize the locker, but I'm not sure what the other connector does. My guess is that it provides feedback to the jeep about the engaged/disengaged state of the locker.

Dana 60 locker leads
These are the leads sticking out of the axle?

Here is what is sticking out of the Dana 60's. There is a plastic connector body included for those two pre-terminated leads along with the mating end that is pre-wired with several feet of wire leads. However, none of the provided wiring is a plug-in fit for the factory harness. It's provided for those who are installing the Dana 60's into a vehicle without any existing wiring. Some cutting and splicing will be required to mate the Dana 60's to the Jeep wiring.

I ran into a problem that I didn't know existed. The bores for the lug nuts in my new Method Racing 105's are too small for a socket to fit in.

How do you tighten that?

While searching for a thin wall socket (which I learned is a thing), I discovered "spline drive" lug nuts designed for "aftermarket wheels that require slim lug nuts"!? Say what? This is so common that we had to re-invent the lug nut? Anyways, I ordered a set and an extra key (because now I have to make sure I always have the stupid key). They work like a charm but I'm still let down that the wheels don't accept a standard socket.

Standard nut verses Spline Drive
Spline Drive Key

Really there is no excuse for Method to manufacture the wheels like this. If they're going to portray their product as "Race Wheels" surely you'd expect the use of an impact socket to remove and tighten the lug nuts, but that is not the case. You can't fit a standard socket much less a beefier impact socket.

Day one!

However I hit a snag early on, the driveshaft I got from Adams Driveshaft is considerably longer than the length I ordered. It's about 2" too long by my estimation. I ordered 43 5/8" and what I got will run about 45-45 1/2".

That's not 43 5/8"