I received my Bestop Trektop NX in black twill last week. It's made really well and looks great however it is incredibly tight making it very hard to get on the first time. When I went to install it I left the canvas sit in the sun for about an hour to warm up before I tried putting it on but I could not get the front hooks to reach the loops on the windshield, it was about 1/2" short. I also could not zip the side panels to the back window if I had them properly inserted into the B-pillar. In the picture below you can see the wrinkle in the side window caused by the side panels not being inserted. You can also see that the back windows is as tight as a drum.

I left the top sit unlatched overnight and tried it again the next afternoon, however it was no better. I eventually had to use ratchet straps to pull the middle bracket toward the windshield so I could latch the top. I had to pull the straps so tight it was scary. I was worried for the grab handle hardware that I had the straps hooked on. I don't know how you could possibly get the top on without a mechanical means of stretching the fabric.

Bestop Trektop NX Twill

I bought new AOSI 4" LED fog lights to match my Vision X LED headlights. See my review here.

AOSI 4
AOSI 4" LED fog lights with halo

There were a couple reasons I wanted different fog lights. The first one is practical, I'm hoping for something that shins farther down the road. The Vision X highlights I have produce a bright patch of light directly in front of the Jeep (right where the factory fog lights shine) and they are bright down the road but they are lacking in the space between. I'm hoping that the AOSI LED foglight with their better beam control and adjustability will fill in the space that the Vision X misses. Second, I didn't care for the color difference between the Vision X LED and the incandescent.

What made me get these particular fog lights is the mini-halo rings! They are the perfect match to the halos on my Vision X headlights. When I'm driving around town often times I have just the halos and the fog lights on. Otherwise my headlights blast right into everybody's back windows and mirrors and must be super annoying. The factory fog lights don't produce enough light for this to be a safe habit on darker roads so hopefully these fog lights will address all of these concerns while looking awesome!

Ever since I installed my new wheels on the Jeep the Tire Pressure Monitoring System has not worked correctly. At no point have all 4 wheels displayed at the same time and some of the wheels are not displaying in the correct location. The new wheels went on with the new axles, so the wheels are pushed out a few inches farther than stock but I can't believe that slight change is the cause of the problem but it could be an ingredient. There doesn't seem to be any way to interact with or manually reset the TPMS system. Any suggestions, This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..

TPMS not reading all the wheels
TPMS not reading all the wheels

When you take a wrench to a brand new vehicle and make some major changes you develop this habit of subconsciously listening for rattles, clunks, and really any signs of imminent doom. Yesterday while driving over some bumps in the road I noticed some clunking coming from under my Jeep. It went from a new sound I'd never heard before to a very noticeable and dreadful sound in a matter of half a mile. I pulled over and inspected everything I can remember having touched with a wrench but nothing looked amiss. I finished my errand and took the Jeep to my shop for further inspection and found that the rear brake caliper mounting bolts on my Dana 60 were never properly torqued from the factory and one had fallen completely out and was lost and the other was hanging on by just a couple threads. The clunking was the brake caliper slapping the inside of the rear wheel.

Loose caliper mounting bolt

My jeep with the Dana 60's and Method 105 beadlock wheels
My Jeep July 11, 2016 with Dana 60's and Method Racing 105's

Dana 60's are in and my Jeep is drivable again! I'll write the details in the Dana 60 Install page on this site soon. I have not tackled the locker wiring yet.

There are no big hang-up with this swap but there is one problem that needs to be addressed and that is the brakes, or lack thereof. The pedel makes it about 3/4 of the way to the floor before any braking actually occurs, which gives you the horrible sensation that you might not have any brakes.

I had a brief scare yesterday...

Front driveshaft CV Joint
Front CV Joint hits this bracket

I put my Jeep in 4WD for the first time since the upgrades and I heard a very worrisome clunking coming from the transfercase. My first thought was that I had done something to the transfer case when I swapped the output flanges. climbed underneath and discovered that the monstrous 1350 CV Joint on the front driveshaft hits a bracket. Luckily it doesn't look too serious and it's something I'll trim or bend out of the way.

Here is my first wiring problem. The wiring harness for the stock Dana 44 has two molded connectors that both have 2 wires in them. The new Dana 60 has just two wires sticking out of it. Something has to give here.

stock axle wiring loom
How do I wire this?

I can assume that one of the connectors on the jeep wiring harness is used to energize the locker, but I'm not sure what the other connector does. My guess is that it provides feedback to the jeep about the engaged/disengaged state of the locker.

I ran into a problem that I didn't know existed. The bores for the lug nuts in my new Method Racing 105's are too small for a socket to fit in.

How do you tighten that?

While searching for a thin wall socket (which I learned is a thing), I discovered "spline drive" lug nuts designed for "aftermarket wheels that require slim lug nuts"!? Say what? This is so common that we had to re-invent the lug nut? Anyways, I ordered a set and an extra key (because now I have to make sure I always have the stupid key). They work like a charm but I'm still let down that the wheels don't accept a standard socket.